1998 Reserve Chardonnay
Light to medium straw-green. Very complex and obvious toasty oak inputs on the bouquet, nonetheless, well integrated. Fills the mouth with gentle ripe peach, nectarine and fig; the creamy texture and structure of great character and quality. To 2010.

1997 Reserve Chardonnay
Medium straw-gold; rich honeyed and smooth aromas are followed by a palate which has surprising elegance and flow, with a tighter texture and body. Seems to be undergoing a phase in its development. To 2006.

1996 Reserve Chardonnay
Developed gold; the fragrant and aromatic bouquet with grilled nut and toasty oak overtones to the fruit belies the colour, being fresher than expected. A supple, smooth and well-balanced palate, fruit-driven, with melon, cashew and fig; excellent acidity and length. To 2008.

1995 Reserve Chardonnay
Full gold; very much in the style of the 1995 varietal, with soft honeyed flavours which are starting to diminish as the oak pokes out. Now - 2004.

1994 Reserve Chardonnay
Colour: Deep yellow-green. Bouquet: Complex, tangy, cool grown aromas, with some cashew and fig in the background. Palate: Continues the tangy drive of the bouquet, with that Burgundian-like, slightly herbal, background. Acidity gives the wine great length.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Should hold past 2006, but is best now.

1993 Reserve Chardonnay
Winemaker's comments: Take out "It is that...wine together" and replace with: The wine peaked around 2000, and is now on the descent. Significant bottle variation.
As is, then Palate: As it was as a young wine, very powerful and intense; the fruit is now starting to dry out, exposing the alcohol.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Now.

1992 Reserve Chardonnay
Straw-gold; ultra complex and very strong bottle-developed aromas; a round, full palate with quince, fig and honeysuckle, before a toasty/nutty finish. A wine with an excellent show record, but showing considerable bottle variation. To 2006.

1991 Reserve Chardonnay
Winemaker's comments: A warm to hot vintage, with lower than average yields; great for red wines, but did create some challenges for the whites. Notwithstanding that, this wine won three trophies, four gold, three silver and eight bronze medals.
Colour: Full yellow-green. Bouquet and Palate: Baked cinnamon spice aromas, partly bottle developed, and partly oak derived, are once again balanced and held together with good acidity running through to a long finish.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Now.

1990 Reserve Chardonnay
Winemaker's comments: The 1990 vintage seemed perfect at the time. It only rained once during the entire harvest period, and then at night. High levels of ripeness were achieved effortlessly with above average cropping levels, and it was in fact the higher than normal yield which was to be the ultimate downfall of some, but not all, of the wines.
Colour: Full yellow-green. Bouquet: Toasty, with soft but ripe fruit underneath. Palate: Some preserved fruit/spice/honey flavours, then acidity to close. Show medals included two golds.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Present drinking, but should hold to 2006.

1998 Chardonnay
Bright straw-green; melon, stone fruit and fig aromas and flavours; barrel ferment/cashew characters evident but not dominant. Lovely mouthfeel and texture, with the usual balance and length. Now - 2008+.

1997 Chardonnay
Slightly deeper colour than the 1998, but still with healthy green tinges. Complex, rich and ripe nectarine and peach aromas of considerable intensity. Notwithstanding the cooler vintage, has a lot of concentration of fruit (and oak). Now - 2007.

1996 Chardonnay
Bright straw-gold, with green tinges. Vibrant, lifted white peach/nectarine/peach kernel aromas. The fruit-driven palate fully reflects the bouquet, with some grilled nut/oak notes in the background. Now - 2007.

1995 Chardonnay
Medium straw-green; soft peach and nectarine fruit aromas and flavours, and the typical touch of nutty oak. Does not have the length or concentration of the better vintage wines, but has not broken up. Now - 2004.

1994 Chardonnay
Colour: Medium to full yellow-green. Bouquet: Complex, rich bottle developed aromas. Palate: Distinctive citrus and tangerine fruit offset by a touch of creamy cashew flavours; the hallmark acidity drives through the long finish.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Up to 1998.

1993 Chardonnay
Winemaker's comments: As is, then: The wine won four gold, two silver and six bronze medals.
Colour: Deep burnished yellow-gold. Bouquet: Rich, ripe citrus and stonefruit aromas. Palate: Has now rounded out, with lots of honey and white peach fruit, the driving force being the acidity running through the still long finish.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Now, but should easily hold until 2006 or longer.

1992 Chardonnay
Developed gold-straw; a highly complex and aromatic bouquet with obvious bottle development characters. White peach, quince, honey and honeysuckle are all to be found. Now - 2008.

1989 Rising Vineyard Chardonnay
Winemaker's comments: Given that 1989 was one of the two worst vintages since 1985, and was (relatively speaking) better for red wines than white, this wine had turned out to be a surprise. Virtually written-off five years ago, it seems to have a new lease of life. The only caveat is the adage that there are no great old wines, only great old bottles.
Colour: Full yellow-green. Bouquet: Bottle developed aromas with some Burgundian characters. Palate: Toast, honey and citrus, with acidity through to the finish.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Now.

1988 Four Vineyards Chardonnay
Growing area: Yarra Valley.
Harvested: April 1988.
Winemaker's comments: All things considered, 1988 has to be the best vintage between 1985 and 2003, with perfect growing season conditions producing medium-sized crops of unblemished grapes. A multiple gold medal winning wine, very similar in style to the benchmark 1988 Rising Shantell Chardonnay which won four trophies and was placed second in the 1991 Gault Millau Olympics (to a La Montrachet of Ramonet).
Colour: Glowing yellow-green. Bouquet: Ultra-complex melon and nectarine fruit set against a mix of barrel ferment and bottle developed complexity. Palate: Harmonious and long; perfect balance; if the corks hold and cellaring conditions are good, with an indefinite future.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Now - 2008.

1988 Rising & Shantell Chardonnay
Medium straw; still wonderfully complex, lifted and fresh aromas of stone fruit and fig, gentle nutty barrel ferment inputs in perfect balance. A fine, still tight palate, with excellent texture and creaminess; has great length and finesse, and will continue aging gracefully. To 2008.

1987 Yarra Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay
Grape variety: Chardonnay.
Growing Area: Yarra Valley.
Winemaker's comments: 100 per cent barrel fermented in 100 per cent new Vosges oak at 12-14˚C in a refrigerated and insulated cool room. Ten per cent of the wine was taken through malolactic, and lees contact (with stirring) was continued until November 1987. A wine which is developing exceedingly slowly, but building great complexity; retasted at various times over its life, and has always developed slowly.
Colour: Glowing yellow-green. Bouquet: Clean and still remarkably fresh. Palate: Elegant grapefruit/citrus fruit sustained by lingering acidity, the oak subtle.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Now - 2007.

1986 Three Vineyards Chardonnay
As is, then: Retasted June 2003 with almost no change – amazing.

1994 Fume Blanc
Colour: Full yellow-green. Bouquet: Complex and rich, with some tropical fruit. Palate: Rich, with a big impact and good length.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Another surprise. When released we said "To be enjoyed at any time over the next two years, preferably sooner rather than later". Nine years later the wine still has life; to 2005.

1992 Fume Blanc
Winemaker's comments: From one of the best years since Coldstream Hills was established in 1985. All of the wines have fulfilled the promise they held when young.
Colour: Bright yellow-green. Bouquet: Fresh and powerful, with strong, citrussy/tangy fruit. Palate: Lemon and gooseberry flavours, with the link sustained by balanced but clear-cut acidity.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Now - 2007.

1990 Fume Blanc
Grape variety: Sauvignon Blanc, Sylvaner, Semillon
Growing area: Yarra Valley
Winemaker's comments:1990 was an incomparably better year than 1989, and while this wine was originally considered to have a two-year cellaring span, it is still very much alive.
Colour: Green-gold. Bouquet: Crisp and clean with citrus, herb and gooseberry aromas. Palate: The flavours track the bouquet in a light-bodied frame.
Last Tasted: June 2003.
Cellaring potential: Now - 2004.

1989 Fume Blanc
Still showing fully mature sauvignon blanc character, sustained by lingering acidity. The original span was given as 1991-1994. Almost ten years later, the wine is still holding, but should be drunk sooner rather than later. Take out "as shown by its progressive development to December 1990" and replace with new sentence. 'It did'.

1988 Semillon
As is (except spelling of Limousin); then (Retasted June 2003 and has fulfilled all of the promise of a long life). Glowing gold; aromatic lemon and honeysuckle aromas and flavours. Excellent balance and acidity. Could hold for another five years (to 2008).

1987 Hillcrest and Shantell Vineyards Semillon
A rare example of a fully mature Yarra Valley Semillon underlining the exceptional aging potential of the variety. As is; then (Retasted June 2003 with near identical notes to that of May 1999).