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A mixture
of medium and high toast Vosges oak is the most important oak type
used for chardonnay; Troncais and Alliers oak are used to add complexity.
Even though one third of the oak used is new, every effort is made
not to allow the wines to become over-oaked. Barrel fermentation
in cool room conditions is one means of moderating the oak pickup;
judicious back blending from smaller quantities of wine held in
stainless steel is another.
The
approach to pinot noir is very different. Whereas chardonnay ferments
are conducted at around 10°C to 12°C, pinot noir is encouraged
to ferment at up to 32°C. Fermentation is by and large carried
out in open fermenters with hand plunging, and on occasion, pigeage
(foot stamping of whole bunches). Varying percentages of whole bunches
are used in the ferment, and some tanks are completely fermented
this way, using pigeage. Some tanks are cold macerated for up to
10 days prior to the commencement of fermentation.
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